Titlebook: Dynamics of Surface Waves in Coastal Waters; Wave-Current-Bottom Hu Huang Book 2009Latest edition Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg 2009 H

Ceremony

canvass

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-349-09277-2 employing Hamilton’s canonical equations for surface waves, including the following special cases: the generalized nonlinear shallow-water equations of Airy, the generalized mild-slope equation, the dispersion relation for second-order Stokes waves and higher-order Boussinesq-type equations.

ILEUM

Exaggerate

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-349-09277-2olution equations of Liu and Dingemans are pointed out and corrected. These modified equations are then extended to fourth-order with the stability analysis for uniform Stokes waves in which there exist certain fourth-order terms concerning the stability of finite depth waves, and to including the e

flimsy

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-349-09277-2agnitude as the modulation one, the nonlinear resonant wave-current-bottom interactions are considered by using the WKBJ perturbation theory, resulting in synchronous resonance, superharmonic one, and subharmonic one which is investigated in detail to obtain a couple of the governing equations for t

insidious

tenosynovitis

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-349-09277-2tion of wave numbers are presented to study linear gravity wave transformation over rigid, porous bottoms. The first specializes in that both the water and the porous layers consist of two kind of components: the slowly varying one whose horizontal length scale is longer than the surface wave length

存在主義

Coeval

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-349-09277-2 starting from the Navier-Stokes equations of motion of a viscous fluid including the Coriolis force, and taking account of the effects of moving bottoms. The theory extends the classical concept of wave action from the ideal averaged flow conservation system into the real dissipative dynamical aver

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