Titlebook: Waves on Water of Variable Depth; Proceedings of a Sym D. G. Provis,R. Radok Conference proceedings 1977 Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg

Agronomy

Some classical water-wave problems in varying depth,ral class of finite-depth waterwave potential problems to the shallow-water limit.Matching techniques are used to treat this limit for the case of sudden changes in depth.Applications are to reflection and transmission of plane waves by sharp or smooth steps, and to ship hydrodynamics over nonunifor

myocardium

Local behaviour of tsunamis,horeline.The Carrier-Greenspan transformation of the non-linear shallow-water equations on a uniformly sloping beach is elucidated to give a set of linear equations analogous to the linearized equations of the original non-linear equations, and an explicit form of the wave-breaking criterion is give

DEVIL

Local behaviour of tsunamis,horeline.The Carrier-Greenspan transformation of the non-linear shallow-water equations on a uniformly sloping beach is elucidated to give a set of linear equations analogous to the linearized equations of the original non-linear equations, and an explicit form of the wave-breaking criterion is give

cartilage

織物

FUSC

Shoaling waves : Numerical solution of exact equations, they applied to spatially-periodic waves in water of infinite depth..Their approach may be extended to the generation and propagation of disturbances over a bed of arbitrary shape and motion. Kinematic and dynamic equations at the free surface and the bed may be expressed as Lagrangian differential

軍械庫(kù)

PAEAN

Cumulus

Wave-wave interactions near the shore,trum. However, the existence of trapped modes, edge waves, having a very different dispersion relation from that of the incoming waves provides the possibility of transferring energy efficiently to much lower frequencies than are normally observed in the open sea. Any detailed analysis of these inte

NUDGE

Surf and run-up,n of the finite- amplitude shallow-water equations and bores. Numerical computations of such bores and their run-up have been performed and compared with analytical results. Calculations for a single bore show the run-up, run-down, formation of a “backwash” bore and reflected waves propagating away